I now have two offerings for sale as patterns.
The hand stitching cord pattern as printable sheets with instructions
And Midna has been updated to include skirt design patterns.
Disclaimer: All photos of the dress are from Padawan’s guide. I haven’t made my own YET. But I’m working on it. The Padawan’s Guide photos are from here: http://www.padawansguide.com/purple.shtml – they are used only as references and to explain how the cord is laid out.
Use the photo below for how the cords should be finished – four rows of a single unbroken running bourdon cord (or two cords), as best described by Kay-Dee on her page here: http://kay-dee.net/costumes/purple/index.htm
The only thing her extremely helpful site did not have were the layout patterns for the cording; I am providing them here. I couldn’t have gotten this far without her pages and pages of tips and suggestions, so thank you Kay-Dee!!!
The reprinted images do not belong to me, but my traced pattern lines do. I you share them, please credit me back for the printable patterns.
Steps for using my patterns
- The images should all be printed out full size and taped together – they should all overlap by a few inches.
- Using wax-free tracing paper, put the colored paper face down on your fabric, the printout on top and trace the middle most inner line onto your fabric using the wheel. Pin the paper in place with regular straight pins so it stays straight up and down on your fabric. Your inner cord will fall along either side of this middle line, and then your outer cord will fall outside the inner cords. Use my printouts as a reference
The cording should end up looking nice and snug up against each other, in a flowing vine layout, done with a couching stitch and hoop. Use a silvery metallic thread if possible for shine.
The inner cord becomes the base for the outer cord. Snug the outer cord right up against the inner when you finish the full inner loop, which will run all the way around at the top, and then loop over your starting point. Add single loopys to the outer cord. Pay attention, some are single ‘tails’ and some are fully doubled, like the one on the inside that hooks off a bigger loopy
The cord will extend out past the top of the pattern I have here, but up until that point is all that is visible. I haven’t seen the dress in person so I don’t know if it extends further. Since the dress is always worn with the coat and the neckline under the coat is never seen, you could get away with just tying it off and not continuing the cord around the upper neckline and back of the neck.
I strongly suggest cutting my neck pattern down the middle and aligning the sides on your dress as needed for a wider or narrower “V” cording pattern. Unlike the front skirt panel and sleeves, there doesn’t appear to be any single loops using only the outer cord.
The sleeve cording pattern is ALMOST mirrored on each side of both sleeves, so you need four patterns total.
It doesn’t show the top of the arm, but we can infer from this and other shots that the sleeve pattern extends up and into the coat.
I like that these shots show the reflected purple glow from the velvet so you can really tell it’s not black.
Above is another shot from Padawan’s Guide – you can clearly see the cording extending all the way up to the sleeve cap/sleeve opening.
In this shot here (also from Padawan’s Guide, you can clearly see the waist seam, and you can kind of see a new curly pattern on the arm up at the top, which I’m including in my pattern. Anything above the mid-upper arm really is just guesswork on my part, so feel free to use the top sections as I have drawn them, or not.
It might be difficult to hoop the sleeves and neckline, but you can still do it by basting your cut sleeve pieces down on another piece of non-stretchy material at the edges, and then hooping. Cut the material off around the sleeves and you have an instant layer of interfacing. The sleeves seem pretty stiff in photos, so this might work out well in the long run. My sleeve pattern might have to be cut into a few pieces to get it lined up on your fabric correctly, depending on your pattern.
The reason I say the sleeve pattern is ALMOST mirrored is due to this infuriating shot here:
Granted, I find EVERY shot of this dress infuriating because the color seems to change EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. But what am I looking at specifically? I’ll tell you. (PS, there’s a great shot of the crinkle fabric coat lining here)
This. This right here.
You can clearly see some of the loopy’s at the seam pointed down against the outer ones pointed up. I’m not going to redraw the pattern just for these couple of differences, so I’ll either conveniently ignore them or do the outer sleeve panels first and decide if I want to give myself a migraine or not.
I don’t have any other good shots that I can reference of the inside of the sleeves, so I’m going to just have to assume these are the only differences, if only for my own sanity.
The neckline might be best done after the dress is complete; just make sure it’s very well interfaced. Saving it to the very end/post attachment means you can cord around the upper neck easily. If you aren’t sure if you have enough to go around the back, start at a shoulder seam and stitch in place while the dress is on a manikin or a patient friend.
And that’s it for my contribution for your own costume’s construction. For everything else, go check out Kay-Dee’s tutorial, or if a Rebel Legion member, there are lots of helpful people on the forums who have already constructed this dress or can help with specific techniques.
Had to finagle the design some – my ‘leaves’ were too thin to properly 3D print, so I selected out the leaves and thickened them. I added more posts, and made them all the same height to help with printing. I pulled out the back of the design a bit too, since the buckle frame was curved inside itself a little, cupping inward from the back. I brought it out to strengthen the frame.
We’ll see if it works this time.
And 3D print ready.
Sized to about 3 inches long by 2 wide. The bottom crossover looks weird, but that’s the way it is on the game model, it doesn’t twist together until the last vine bit. I left out the center red gem because it’ll look better if you insert your own clear gem rather than painting it as part of the thing. The very middle bar should be cut off before mounting. I’m going to ask my friend to do a test print and see how big the holes at the top actually are, and if the weird beak tips come out okay.
Saved as an STL file, should be no problems with it.
Finally started True Form Midna’s forehead pendant thing. I think I’m going to chop off the head of the bird/snake thing and start over- it’s lumpy and I don’t like it. Once I fix or re-do the head, I’ll mirror it and adjust the crossings. The final product should be around 3 inches long at most. It’s kinda big but not super big.
A friend of mine who I hope will be a co-worker soon just got a Maker Bot 3D printer. Ours isn’t up and running yet, and she’s offered to test print some things for me, possibly helping me sell some items too. Hers can only handle stuff up to around 4 inches by 4 inches, but that’s enough for some of the cosplay pieces I need, and some I can sell.
So some drama happened out in the Wilmington office – a copperhead snake got in the building. They’re in a building were they can’t kill snakes, so they had to remove it alive somehow.
I whipped this up for them on the fly.
I like rainbows. So sue me.
I actually got a LOT of positive responses from my facebook feed on this one, so I may try to convert him to an AI file and trace everything. lately I like black/white to rainbow ideas, and I’m pleased with how this one came out.
Last Pot Brewed #211, on the 3ft by 2ft white board. The board itself came to me a little scratched up, so I really ought to just replace it myself.
The PDF has complete instructions for making the cloak. Later versions will include the skirt and other items. Midna is my first true costume love, and I still haven’t really retired her, even if I haven’t worn her in over a year.
Purchasing the file also gets you the above pattern that can be printed out full size for someone who is between 5’5″ and 5’8″. Any more or less, and I’ll do an adjustment and save out a new file, otherwise it can be difficult to position and keep in proportion.
It probably would have been easier to just remake this damn thing. And I still might end up doing that.
I downloaded a free 3D print R2 and imported it into Lightwave. It was pretty good to begin with, but it was not 3D printer ready. I cut off one of the projector knob things and it had some free edges inside of it, which would not have printed. And I’m not talking about the part I cut off either. I filled into some spots, then realized the entire (now) pink area of polys were also free floating with no thickness, so I had to use the Thicken tool on it. Except it didn’t quite work because of all the funky triangles. It also had a free floating cylinder inside that didn’t intersect with anything for no apparent reason.
A couple of months ago, my husband got the bug to build his own R2 unit, specifically, Whistler, who is Corran Horn’s droid in the Star Wars Expanded Universe. Whistler is green and grey but otherwise is built the same as Artoo, Luke’s famous companion with a bright shiny silver dome and catapults and whatnot. The biggest difficulty so far has been obtaining a proper dome – as an R2 dome isn’t quite a half sphere, but is slightly extended, almost egg-shaped. My hubby has managed to collect motors, wheels and has even programmed the R2 brain in a Raspberry pi. Whistler has a projector, sheets of styrene set aside for body and feel paneling and even piles of MDF that will be CNC cut out for the legs. The dome has been nearly impossible to find or have made – it is 300 mm high and 465 mm across, but 45 cm is acceptable, as are true half-spheres for the purpose of the approval of the many droid building communities – many of which share around free information and are happy to discuss building methods, parts and their own solutions to the myriad problems of re-inventing the sci-fi astromech that is so universally well loved.
Since we’re going to the trouble to build and modify 3D printable parts ourselves, I’m making it to those oblong proportions. The free model that I found has a true half-sphere dome and I can’t quite use it. So the plan is that I’m going to cut off or duplicate all the pieces on the dome, then stretch the dome, cut out the new panels and doors, then cut the dome up into printable pieces. That’s going to be a lot of chopping.
The 3D printer we’ll be using can only handle a 9 inch wide by 13 inch tall area, so the dome must be broken up into at least 8 pieces.
My biggest gripe with the free model (besides sizing) is that it isn’t smooth. If someone printed it as is, it would require a lot of smoothing, which would remove some of the outer shape, which might make pieces too small. But they couldn’t print it, because it has random floating cylinders in it. Gr.
3D printing requires some smoothing process as it is, so that’s not a huge issue. but the dome is very complicated, and having to remove too much could have serious consequences for the fitting back together stages.