My second take on this ‘stalking pose’ from the Star Wars informal photoshoot day on May 17th. I had played with it once, tweaked it, and then ultimately slapped myself on a free existing downloadable background.
I jacked up the lightsaber glow effects, fixed a few lighting issues and probably added an extra filter or two. Overall, I’m happy with it. I really wish the original photo hadn’t come out blurry, but I think it works alright for the ‘book cover’ type effect that I’m going for here.
I love wearing my Mara.
Original photo by Brandon Hurley
I readily admit this turned out better than I expected. Chris Burnside is one of our resident “Generic Jedi” at our Blue Ridge Base with Rebel Legion. We had an informal/non-event photoshoot a couple days ago to get some character shots, and he half-jokingly posed for this “YOU SHALL NOT PASS” shot. Half an hour ago, I asked him if he could think of any particular shots he wanted glammed up. He said no, so I took it as a personal challenge.
We had an informal Star Wars photoshoot this weekend with members of our local Rebel Legion group and one of the Carolina Garrison. Technically, I was in my Garrison version of Mara, since I have the purple lightsaber here that I picked up from SaberForge last year, as a gift from my husband for an anniversary present. This is the second lightsaber I’ve gotten as a present, and I got him one last year too for the Corran Horn Jedi Robes I’m making him. Eventually, I’ll make him a CorSec flight suit/uniform as well.
I made my original Mara cat/jump suit based off Twi’lek Pam’s information and instructions here: Mara Jade suit
I’m wearing a brand new suit made of 4-way stretch material. I broke down and bought the good quality vinyl/spandex for from Spandex World, after ordering some samples. I ordered from the ‘fake leather’ line, which is a 4-way stretch fabric that sewed surprisingly well. The suit is also extremely comfortable – I fully expected to sweat it in, but I didn’t. I’m not saying it’s breathable, but I could wear this thing all day with no problems. I haven’t added the piping yet – my serger worked fine on the fabric, but the regular machine that I was borrowing did not. I had finished up some details before crashing at her house before the shoot, and was unable to add the front or back piping using her machine. My first suit was a lighter, ‘dancer’ type material, and looked good in photos, but it did not hold up. The original material was so stretchy that I kept getting various lines of bunching when I stitched it together. This new fabric is much hardier and easier to sew.
We collected out at the Fayetteville Botanical Gardens and had permission to take photos an hour before the regular crowds started showing up. I got a few photos that I was more or less happy with, and so did everyone else, so I’m calling the event was a success.
I’ll be adding Mara Jumpsuits to my list of things I’ll do on commission, now that I’ve done a few and have figured out the little tricks to it.
The PDF has complete instructions for making the cloak. Later versions will include the skirt and other items. Midna is my first true costume love, and I still haven’t really retired her, even if I haven’t worn her in over a year.
Purchasing the file also gets you the above pattern that can be printed out full size for someone who is between 5’5″ and 5’8″. Any more or less, and I’ll do an adjustment and save out a new file, otherwise it can be difficult to position and keep in proportion.
It probably would have been easier to just remake this damn thing. And I still might end up doing that.
I downloaded a free 3D print R2 and imported it into Lightwave. It was pretty good to begin with, but it was not 3D printer ready. I cut off one of the projector knob things and it had some free edges inside of it, which would not have printed. And I’m not talking about the part I cut off either. I filled into some spots, then realized the entire (now) pink area of polys were also free floating with no thickness, so I had to use the Thicken tool on it. Except it didn’t quite work because of all the funky triangles. It also had a free floating cylinder inside that didn’t intersect with anything for no apparent reason.
A couple of months ago, my husband got the bug to build his own R2 unit, specifically, Whistler, who is Corran Horn’s droid in the Star Wars Expanded Universe. Whistler is green and grey but otherwise is built the same as Artoo, Luke’s famous companion with a bright shiny silver dome and catapults and whatnot. The biggest difficulty so far has been obtaining a proper dome – as an R2 dome isn’t quite a half sphere, but is slightly extended, almost egg-shaped. My hubby has managed to collect motors, wheels and has even programmed the R2 brain in a Raspberry pi. Whistler has a projector, sheets of styrene set aside for body and feel paneling and even piles of MDF that will be CNC cut out for the legs. The dome has been nearly impossible to find or have made – it is 300 mm high and 465 mm across, but 45 cm is acceptable, as are true half-spheres for the purpose of the approval of the many droid building communities – many of which share around free information and are happy to discuss building methods, parts and their own solutions to the myriad problems of re-inventing the sci-fi astromech that is so universally well loved.
Since we’re going to the trouble to build and modify 3D printable parts ourselves, I’m making it to those oblong proportions. The free model that I found has a true half-sphere dome and I can’t quite use it. So the plan is that I’m going to cut off or duplicate all the pieces on the dome, then stretch the dome, cut out the new panels and doors, then cut the dome up into printable pieces. That’s going to be a lot of chopping.
The 3D printer we’ll be using can only handle a 9 inch wide by 13 inch tall area, so the dome must be broken up into at least 8 pieces.
My biggest gripe with the free model (besides sizing) is that it isn’t smooth. If someone printed it as is, it would require a lot of smoothing, which would remove some of the outer shape, which might make pieces too small. But they couldn’t print it, because it has random floating cylinders in it. Gr.
3D printing requires some smoothing process as it is, so that’s not a huge issue. but the dome is very complicated, and having to remove too much could have serious consequences for the fitting back together stages.
3D printer is being built. This past weekend, I mostly morally assisted my husband while he worked on fitting the 3D printer parts. Most of the hardware parts are together, and the computer parts remain to be finished.
Can’t test print my item, YET, but hopefully very soon. In the mean time, I’m working on something that he requested for his project.
I’ve done some virtual sets for work, but I haven’t really attempted to make something from existing plans. The virtual sets tend to be 3-walled rather than four, and single room, or implied single room only. Final renders with lighting and textures were needed, of course, but the structure of the room itself wasn’t all that important. I also feel a little rusty since no one at work has wanted or requested a new virtual set in a while.
Here are one of the preview plans that my husband and I rejected for our future house building adventures. As you can see from the linked page, the plans are not complete. It seems to not be showing the light house like tower as a separate plan, but that shouldn’t be a problem. As an exercise, potentially for the plans we do settle on, I’m going to see if I can replicate the house in Lightwave. I’ll likely populate it with free table and other household objects, since plenty of those already exist online and there’s not much point in spending time on chairs and say, curtains.
If it all works out, there will be two final versions of the house project. One project will have furniture and lighting and be rendered. The other will be empty and suitable for 3D printing in blocks.
China recently made the news with 3D printing components of houses. This kind of put a little bug in my brain about possibly doing 3D printed mini-houses in a compartment manner so they can either be assembled or snapped together in boxes.
Tweak mesh: check
Reize mesh to 4 inches/101 mm: check
Added posts to help keep stable while printing: check
Subdivide for density: check
Make all triangles: check
Rotate so it builds flat: check
Exported in a printable format: check
I’ve updated the object so none of the leaves are overlapping. Everything is now on one single layer, but I may have to break it up again for 3D printing, I don’t know yet, but I hope I only have to add some posts to the back that can be broken or cut off to support the leaves and arches while printing. The leaves and vines are now partially attached to each other in back, also for printing support and for physical support, since there are so many free floating tendrils.
I don’t know when I’ll be able to do a test print, but hopefully soon!
I’m also going to have to make the mesh denser, it’s currently in ‘smooth’ mode with fewer polys than it looks.
In other news, Tandy leather no longer carries any grey suede, except for the super expensive lambskin hides, so I’m either going to have to go internet hunting and hope I can find enough of the same color and quality to make the chase dress, or I’ll have to just suck it up and go with a thick micro or ultra suede. I’d prefer to have my own real leather outfit, but reasonable pricing tends to win over perfect material. Or it does when I’d have to get $500 worth or lambskin.
A friend said she wanted to look more like Morgana, and took the original photo of herself at the Festival of Legends in Chapel Hill. I tweaked it for her, to look more like a specific character photo.