The PDF has complete instructions for making the cloak. Later versions will include the skirt and other items. Midna is my first true costume love, and I still haven’t really retired her, even if I haven’t worn her in over a year.
Purchasing the file also gets you the above pattern that can be printed out full size for someone who is between 5’5″ and 5’8″. Any more or less, and I’ll do an adjustment and save out a new file, otherwise it can be difficult to position and keep in proportion.
It probably would have been easier to just remake this damn thing. And I still might end up doing that.
I downloaded a free 3D print R2 and imported it into Lightwave. It was pretty good to begin with, but it was not 3D printer ready. I cut off one of the projector knob things and it had some free edges inside of it, which would not have printed. And I’m not talking about the part I cut off either. I filled into some spots, then realized the entire (now) pink area of polys were also free floating with no thickness, so I had to use the Thicken tool on it. Except it didn’t quite work because of all the funky triangles. It also had a free floating cylinder inside that didn’t intersect with anything for no apparent reason.
A couple of months ago, my husband got the bug to build his own R2 unit, specifically, Whistler, who is Corran Horn’s droid in the Star Wars Expanded Universe. Whistler is green and grey but otherwise is built the same as Artoo, Luke’s famous companion with a bright shiny silver dome and catapults and whatnot. The biggest difficulty so far has been obtaining a proper dome – as an R2 dome isn’t quite a half sphere, but is slightly extended, almost egg-shaped. My hubby has managed to collect motors, wheels and has even programmed the R2 brain in a Raspberry pi. Whistler has a projector, sheets of styrene set aside for body and feel paneling and even piles of MDF that will be CNC cut out for the legs. The dome has been nearly impossible to find or have made – it is 300 mm high and 465 mm across, but 45 cm is acceptable, as are true half-spheres for the purpose of the approval of the many droid building communities – many of which share around free information and are happy to discuss building methods, parts and their own solutions to the myriad problems of re-inventing the sci-fi astromech that is so universally well loved.
Since we’re going to the trouble to build and modify 3D printable parts ourselves, I’m making it to those oblong proportions. The free model that I found has a true half-sphere dome and I can’t quite use it. So the plan is that I’m going to cut off or duplicate all the pieces on the dome, then stretch the dome, cut out the new panels and doors, then cut the dome up into printable pieces. That’s going to be a lot of chopping.
The 3D printer we’ll be using can only handle a 9 inch wide by 13 inch tall area, so the dome must be broken up into at least 8 pieces.
My biggest gripe with the free model (besides sizing) is that it isn’t smooth. If someone printed it as is, it would require a lot of smoothing, which would remove some of the outer shape, which might make pieces too small. But they couldn’t print it, because it has random floating cylinders in it. Gr.
3D printing requires some smoothing process as it is, so that’s not a huge issue. but the dome is very complicated, and having to remove too much could have serious consequences for the fitting back together stages.
3D printer is being built. This past weekend, I mostly morally assisted my husband while he worked on fitting the 3D printer parts. Most of the hardware parts are together, and the computer parts remain to be finished.
Can’t test print my item, YET, but hopefully very soon. In the mean time, I’m working on something that he requested for his project.
I’ve done some virtual sets for work, but I haven’t really attempted to make something from existing plans. The virtual sets tend to be 3-walled rather than four, and single room, or implied single room only. Final renders with lighting and textures were needed, of course, but the structure of the room itself wasn’t all that important. I also feel a little rusty since no one at work has wanted or requested a new virtual set in a while.
Here are one of the preview plans that my husband and I rejected for our future house building adventures. As you can see from the linked page, the plans are not complete. It seems to not be showing the light house like tower as a separate plan, but that shouldn’t be a problem. As an exercise, potentially for the plans we do settle on, I’m going to see if I can replicate the house in Lightwave. I’ll likely populate it with free table and other household objects, since plenty of those already exist online and there’s not much point in spending time on chairs and say, curtains.
If it all works out, there will be two final versions of the house project. One project will have furniture and lighting and be rendered. The other will be empty and suitable for 3D printing in blocks.
China recently made the news with 3D printing components of houses. This kind of put a little bug in my brain about possibly doing 3D printed mini-houses in a compartment manner so they can either be assembled or snapped together in boxes.
Tweak mesh: check
Reize mesh to 4 inches/101 mm: check
Added posts to help keep stable while printing: check
Subdivide for density: check
Make all triangles: check
Rotate so it builds flat: check
Exported in a printable format: check
I’ve updated the object so none of the leaves are overlapping. Everything is now on one single layer, but I may have to break it up again for 3D printing, I don’t know yet, but I hope I only have to add some posts to the back that can be broken or cut off to support the leaves and arches while printing. The leaves and vines are now partially attached to each other in back, also for printing support and for physical support, since there are so many free floating tendrils.
I don’t know when I’ll be able to do a test print, but hopefully soon!
I’m also going to have to make the mesh denser, it’s currently in ‘smooth’ mode with fewer polys than it looks.
In other news, Tandy leather no longer carries any grey suede, except for the super expensive lambskin hides, so I’m either going to have to go internet hunting and hope I can find enough of the same color and quality to make the chase dress, or I’ll have to just suck it up and go with a thick micro or ultra suede. I’d prefer to have my own real leather outfit, but reasonable pricing tends to win over perfect material. Or it does when I’d have to get $500 worth or lambskin.
One of the costumes I have on my “to-do” list is the “Chase” dress worn by Arwen in the Lord of the Rings movies. A very helpful person has already gone through and done every bit of necessary research I could ever think of.
The belt buckle on the costume is huge and delicate, and I cannot currently cast metal objects. It seems like a good candidate for a 3D printer item. I used a sketch someone else had made as a basis for modeling the belt buckle in Lightwave.
Starting with this:
After about four hours, I’m here:
The bottom-most leaves are slightly asymmetrical, and I’m going to modify the top set of leaf/wings to also be a little asymmetrical as well. I want to capture the feel of something hand made once it’s printed, and not completely perfect. The only thing I want to look exactly symmetrical are the long upper and lower half-loops. The belt buckle will tie on the sides with ribbon.
At the moment, some of the leaves are overlapping on each other, and I’ll have to fix that before exporting as a printable object. I’m also going to tighten the raised ridges on the half loops to make them more distinct. I’m going to have to experiment with the leaf thickness to see if it’ll be strong enough once printed. I may also glue a wire to the back loops to reinforce them if they seem wobbly.
So, sometime in the past, News 14 asked for a Gas Station sort of virtual set. The reporter that requested it wanted to be able to render out a short animation that showed the entire gas station from a distance and then zoomed into the pump. My boss okayed the project, and then never told me to stop working on it after I finished what the reporter asked for. For a few extra weeks between other projects, I added a bunch of extra props to flesh out the scene. I added dumpsters modeled after the ones in our parking lot, a phone booth and air/vacuum pump, some basic shelves inside the store, wooden pallets, the ice machine, and a few other bits. They finally got around to telling me to stop working on it, or I would have flattened the curb in front of the store to make a wheelchair access, and improved the lighting rigs. I made or modified all the textures in Photoshop, and took some of the texture photos myself from a local gas station.
Close up of the pumps:
further back, older file but shows more.
A cat post. It had to happen sooner or later. Meet Lieutenant McFluffypants.
Louie here is 19 years old this year. That’s roughly six billion in cat years. Here’s a shout-out to you, buddy, I hope you stick around for another 20 years, cause you aren’t allowed to die. My world would end.
He was adopted by my husband in ’96 from the Wake County Animal Shelter, and he was already almost an adult then, probably about a year old but no one knows for sure. He’s at the vet here for his usual check-ups and a refill of his allergy and arthritis/pain drugs. His vet says he has the heart and lungs of a much younger cat, plus no signs of anything bad about to happen – knock wood – but he is legitimately is old as dirt so we’ll keep a close eye on him.
Here’s to you, Louie. Keeping being a kitty.