Had to finagle the design some – my ‘leaves’ were too thin to properly 3D print, so I selected out the leaves and thickened them. I added more posts, and made them all the same height to help with printing. I pulled out the back of the design a bit too, since the buckle frame was curved inside itself a little, cupping inward from the back. I brought it out to strengthen the frame.
We’ll see if it works this time.
And 3D print ready.
Sized to about 3 inches long by 2 wide. The bottom crossover looks weird, but that’s the way it is on the game model, it doesn’t twist together until the last vine bit. I left out the center red gem because it’ll look better if you insert your own clear gem rather than painting it as part of the thing. The very middle bar should be cut off before mounting. I’m going to ask my friend to do a test print and see how big the holes at the top actually are, and if the weird beak tips come out okay.
Saved as an STL file, should be no problems with it.
Finally started True Form Midna’s forehead pendant thing. I think I’m going to chop off the head of the bird/snake thing and start over- it’s lumpy and I don’t like it. Once I fix or re-do the head, I’ll mirror it and adjust the crossings. The final product should be around 3 inches long at most. It’s kinda big but not super big.
A friend of mine who I hope will be a co-worker soon just got a Maker Bot 3D printer. Ours isn’t up and running yet, and she’s offered to test print some things for me, possibly helping me sell some items too. Hers can only handle stuff up to around 4 inches by 4 inches, but that’s enough for some of the cosplay pieces I need, and some I can sell.
So some drama happened out in the Wilmington office – a copperhead snake got in the building. They’re in a building were they can’t kill snakes, so they had to remove it alive somehow.
I whipped this up for them on the fly.
This was a really cool and fun project that has since been retired, as we no longer use VizRt. A little while after North Carolina got the lottery, someone thought it would be helpful to have a template with changeable numbers in an interesting format.
I built the billboard in Lightwave, in layers. One of the fun things about VizRt is that when you are importing 3D objects, they have to be divided up into multiple objects if you want to use more than one image for any given part of it. Viz will not accept more than one surface image on any one object. The other fun thing is that it does not import objects to scale. If you import a space shuttle and then import the shuttle bay doors and drop them in the same project, they’re both going to be the same length and one has to manually re-size the doors down to match the shuttle again, which may or may not lead to being able to line them up correctly. I had to import my football in 5 sections, one for each quarter and one for the laces. When I last used Viz, it did not do a good job of bending images, so ball objects required quite a bit of arranging to get images to line up right.
I imported the board, walkway, number border box and pole separately so I could modify their colors. The dollar sign is a permanent symbol, and the the others were rectangular planes that you could choose which number to display. Or you could type it in, I forget which. I had some help with the VB script. The background displays a moving video loop of traffic on I-40, and the rotating ’14’s. The billboard image was originally a .jpg saved out of photoshop.
It probably would have been easier to just remake this damn thing. And I still might end up doing that.
I downloaded a free 3D print R2 and imported it into Lightwave. It was pretty good to begin with, but it was not 3D printer ready. I cut off one of the projector knob things and it had some free edges inside of it, which would not have printed. And I’m not talking about the part I cut off either. I filled into some spots, then realized the entire (now) pink area of polys were also free floating with no thickness, so I had to use the Thicken tool on it. Except it didn’t quite work because of all the funky triangles. It also had a free floating cylinder inside that didn’t intersect with anything for no apparent reason.
A couple of months ago, my husband got the bug to build his own R2 unit, specifically, Whistler, who is Corran Horn’s droid in the Star Wars Expanded Universe. Whistler is green and grey but otherwise is built the same as Artoo, Luke’s famous companion with a bright shiny silver dome and catapults and whatnot. The biggest difficulty so far has been obtaining a proper dome – as an R2 dome isn’t quite a half sphere, but is slightly extended, almost egg-shaped. My hubby has managed to collect motors, wheels and has even programmed the R2 brain in a Raspberry pi. Whistler has a projector, sheets of styrene set aside for body and feel paneling and even piles of MDF that will be CNC cut out for the legs. The dome has been nearly impossible to find or have made – it is 300 mm high and 465 mm across, but 45 cm is acceptable, as are true half-spheres for the purpose of the approval of the many droid building communities – many of which share around free information and are happy to discuss building methods, parts and their own solutions to the myriad problems of re-inventing the sci-fi astromech that is so universally well loved.
Since we’re going to the trouble to build and modify 3D printable parts ourselves, I’m making it to those oblong proportions. The free model that I found has a true half-sphere dome and I can’t quite use it. So the plan is that I’m going to cut off or duplicate all the pieces on the dome, then stretch the dome, cut out the new panels and doors, then cut the dome up into printable pieces. That’s going to be a lot of chopping.
The 3D printer we’ll be using can only handle a 9 inch wide by 13 inch tall area, so the dome must be broken up into at least 8 pieces.
My biggest gripe with the free model (besides sizing) is that it isn’t smooth. If someone printed it as is, it would require a lot of smoothing, which would remove some of the outer shape, which might make pieces too small. But they couldn’t print it, because it has random floating cylinders in it. Gr.
3D printing requires some smoothing process as it is, so that’s not a huge issue. but the dome is very complicated, and having to remove too much could have serious consequences for the fitting back together stages.
3D printer is being built. This past weekend, I mostly morally assisted my husband while he worked on fitting the 3D printer parts. Most of the hardware parts are together, and the computer parts remain to be finished.
Can’t test print my item, YET, but hopefully very soon. In the mean time, I’m working on something that he requested for his project.
I’ve done some virtual sets for work, but I haven’t really attempted to make something from existing plans. The virtual sets tend to be 3-walled rather than four, and single room, or implied single room only. Final renders with lighting and textures were needed, of course, but the structure of the room itself wasn’t all that important. I also feel a little rusty since no one at work has wanted or requested a new virtual set in a while.
Here are one of the preview plans that my husband and I rejected for our future house building adventures. As you can see from the linked page, the plans are not complete. It seems to not be showing the light house like tower as a separate plan, but that shouldn’t be a problem. As an exercise, potentially for the plans we do settle on, I’m going to see if I can replicate the house in Lightwave. I’ll likely populate it with free table and other household objects, since plenty of those already exist online and there’s not much point in spending time on chairs and say, curtains.
If it all works out, there will be two final versions of the house project. One project will have furniture and lighting and be rendered. The other will be empty and suitable for 3D printing in blocks.
China recently made the news with 3D printing components of houses. This kind of put a little bug in my brain about possibly doing 3D printed mini-houses in a compartment manner so they can either be assembled or snapped together in boxes.
Tweak mesh: check
Reize mesh to 4 inches/101 mm: check
Added posts to help keep stable while printing: check
Subdivide for density: check
Make all triangles: check
Rotate so it builds flat: check
Exported in a printable format: check
I’ve updated the object so none of the leaves are overlapping. Everything is now on one single layer, but I may have to break it up again for 3D printing, I don’t know yet, but I hope I only have to add some posts to the back that can be broken or cut off to support the leaves and arches while printing. The leaves and vines are now partially attached to each other in back, also for printing support and for physical support, since there are so many free floating tendrils.
I don’t know when I’ll be able to do a test print, but hopefully soon!
I’m also going to have to make the mesh denser, it’s currently in ‘smooth’ mode with fewer polys than it looks.
In other news, Tandy leather no longer carries any grey suede, except for the super expensive lambskin hides, so I’m either going to have to go internet hunting and hope I can find enough of the same color and quality to make the chase dress, or I’ll have to just suck it up and go with a thick micro or ultra suede. I’d prefer to have my own real leather outfit, but reasonable pricing tends to win over perfect material. Or it does when I’d have to get $500 worth or lambskin.